jcpadrino asked: Hello! I want to know if you have or know about a tutorial for make a men yukata? I Will be apreciate the information. Thanks.
Wow, this takes me back- my entry into the online kitsuke community was sharing scans of how to make yukata. I will heavily quote myself circa 2010 for this one. We are going to use ゆかたを手作り (ISBN4-8347-2427-1).
First some finished product looks, so you can get an idea of what kind of pattern you want on your cotton.
Now the instruction in Japanese, followed by explanations.
Now to choose the size you want, you need a couple of your own measurements in cm. See where in the box it says 幅? That means ‘width’. 丈 means ‘length’. Okay, not so hard so far. The very first line asks for your height. The pattern says a S is for someone 166 cm tall (5’5), M for 174 cm (5’8.5), and L is for 180 cm (5’10). That’s okay, we can just add length to the bottom. Deep breaths, everything will be okay. If you fall between 5’5 to 5’11 everything is good so far.
The third line asks for your nape to wrist length. Measure from your first palpable vertebrae to your wrist bone (or rather have a friend do it for you). Remember to check your arm length if you are increasing the total length since that’s more often a problem with tall men’s garments than in women’s.
The next lines that start with 袖 are about the sleeve, so ignore it for now.
Now comes 後ろ幅 (back width). This is half the actual width of the back, because the seam runs down the back. Double this number and add it to the next number,前幅 (front width), also doubled to determine the size of hips the yukata is for. The front of the men’s pattern doesn’t vary, but the back does. Measure your widest point, either your waist or hips. S fits 110 cm (43 in), M fits 112 cm (44 in), L fits 114 cm (~45 in).
Now we must measure out our pieces. The arrangement below is for a Japanese width bolt. You will be able to lay things out side by side on a western bolt. General layout thoughts:
The pattern is across the bottom of the page, for a Japanese bolt and in the middle of the page for a Western bolt:
Deep breaths. It’s not as complicated as it appears. We just need to apply our size choice from before to the pattern. The numbers are already written for us, the bold numbers are the M size. Written at the very bottom is the yardage required (sorry metric users, I’m going to still call it yardage, is meterage even a word?) using Japanese bolts. Notice if you make a L with a Western bolt, you only need 440 cm instead of 1140 cm with a Japanese bolt.
Remember when you layout your pattern a dotted line is a fold and a solid line is a cut.
To be continued in Part II: The sewing.